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September 27, 2002 |
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Living-Wage Movement
By Jane Tanner
Since Baltimore became the first U.S. city to adopt a so-called living-wage ordinance in 1994, nearly 100 cities and counties have mandated wage floors above the $5.15-an-hour federal minimum. Relatively few workers take home bigger paychecks — perhaps 100,000 of the nation's 134 million workers. Moreover, living-wage ordinances are banned in one state, and others may follow suit. While the living-wage. . . .
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President, Association of Community Organizations for Reform Now (ACORN). Written for The CQ Researcher, September 2002
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Executive Director, Employment Policies Institute. Written for The CQ Researcher, September 2002
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Ben Cohen, the social-activist entrepreneur, has already proved that selling additive-free ice cream can turn a profit. Now he's taken on a tougher capitalistic challenge: He wants to prove that companies can provide garment workers — traditionally poorly paid — with a decent work environment and a livable wage and still generate profits.
The former co-owner of ice cream giant Ben & Jerry's threw down a gauntlet last spring in what could be called the “Sweatshop Challenge.” He and long-time friend Pierre Ferrari, an heir to the Ferrari car fortune, set up a clothing factory, SweatX, in the Los Angeles garment district, an area notorious for paltry wages and sweatshop conditions.
“What's needed is to add a social, spiritual dimension to the business,” Cohen said on “The Oprah Winfrey Show” last spring. “When you're shopping for your next T-shirt, try thinking about these two words: 50 cents. Fifty cents is the approximate price difference between a shirt made in a sweatshop and a T-shirt that isn't.”
Speed, not wages, determines profitability, Cohen said. To prove his point, he used $1.5 million from his venture-capital firm, Hot Fudge Social Venture Fund, to fill an old warehouse with high-tech, air-driven sewing machines and computerized material cutters. “Ultimately, this technology will result in fewer jobs,” Cohen said in a Labor Day radio commentary. “But ignoring [advanced technology] just to maintain more miserable jobs is no solution.”
SweatX expects to employ about 80 workers this year, with the lowest wages pegged at $8.50 an hour (average wages are $10.58), plus benefits, pension and profit sharing. Managers cannot take home more than eight times the salary of the lowest-paid worker.
The company currently only sells wholesale, mostly to unions, some colleges and faith-based nonprofits, said Ferrari, who is chairman. Optimistically, it expects to turn a profit during its first year. “There are people out there who believe in the message,” said Chief Financial Officer Doug Waterman, who left commercial banking and took a 50-percent pay cut to join SweatX. “Are there enough to make this a successful business venture? That's the big gamble.”
Ilse Metchek, director of the California Fashion Association, doubts that shoppers — including students — will pay more for a shirt because workers who made it are paid more. “Students protest,” she said. “But when push comes to shove, they go to Wal-Mart and buy clothing made in Saipan.”
Yet, others are betting on success. “Mr. Cohen has something of a track record in balancing what appear to be contradictory business dicta and coming out on top,” wrote Andrew Gumbel, a columnist with The Independent in London.
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Document Citation Tanner, J. (2002, September 27). Living-wage movement. CQ Researcher, 12, 769-792. Retrieved from http://library.cqpress.com/cqresearcher/
Document ID: cqresrre2002092700
Document URL: http://library.cqpress.com/cqresearcher/cqresrre2002092700
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